Tuesday, July 14, 2009

AM BBQ 2009

My feet hurt all night. I put on my sneakers, but they don't help too much. After some research it's off to Haight-Ashbury on the bus. I'm still not inamoured with San Francisco and the bus trip doesn't convince me that I'm wrong. So far I haven't seen a part of the city I like or had an experience here I can relate to – I mean, aside fromt he AM stuff. We get to the Haight and have breakfast and walk around a while. I don't see much of the hippy culture that made the place famous but there were a few weirdy-looking big-pupiled guys in the coffee shop. They seemed to be familiar with the thoughts of Timothy Leary. No flower children about though.

We wait a while for the bus to take us to Chrissy Field and instead take a taxi when it doesn't come. I'm impressed by the last part of the ride when we're about to arrive cause it's basically like driving off a cliff into a park that ends at the ocean.

Registered at the BBQ I'm a little ovewhelmed as I look around. There are so many people. The next 5 hours go by in a blur of conversationing and joking around and chatting and eating hot dogs and burgers. I never do get to fly the kite I bought on the coast on the way up cause I forget, and I realise later that my scalp is burnt, but I also get to make contacts which I'm definately going to follow up, and generally just had a really really wonderful time.

Fabri and I walk all the way through Chrissy Field back towards Fisherman's Wharf and come across a few San Fran jewels. First, there's the guys kite and windsurfing. And I can see the possibility of rekindling my passion for watersports. Then we wander into a neighborhood which is so beautiful I can consider moving to this part of the world (... finances permitting... it seems like a pretty swish part of town).

We decide to stop for a glass of wine and try 2 types of Zinfandel, then move across the street to a chinese restaurant. I over order, but the food it good if a little too spicy. I want to try to make it to the AM gathering tonight but have to be honest with myself after we finish that I'm just too tired. It's been a crazy few weeks, and tomorrow we have the flight home.

Anyhow, that crews' all invited to stop by the next time they're in Milan.

July 11th - Grad in San Fran

Graduation day. I get up and spend a while being anxious and getting ready. I get into my dress and heels. With the help of a local (and we already know what the neighbourhood is like where we're staying) we get to the bus stop that takes us over to the waterfront where the ceremony is being held. It's 12:30 and there's a mandatory rehearsal for me.

I'm a little late so I get into the hall and struggle to find my name on the seats. It's alphabetical by first name and I find it in the end next to JJ Pastor, who I shared a few classes with, I think class 5 Pre-Production and 6 Short Film Production. We joke around for a while cause we're both up for student choice awards. I convince him that he's going to win his category because he got a mail requesting photos and I hadn't. He becomes nervous and we have a bit of fun with that.

The ceremony is brilliant. Shawn, Carlos and Bobby all top one another with their entrances. It's great to see them in person even if I had a chance to chat with Bobby yesterday. They're on form and in their element. They're really the same as you always see them in the lectures or in the video news. It's great.

The speeches are all touching. I tear up a little bit. There's alot of talk about dreams coming true and community and supporting one another. It's refeshing cause since ending class 5 and maybe Annecy I haven't really felt like part of something. Like a something. And everyone talking made me remember that I really am. On top of the AM someting, there's the bigger something of being part of my own goals and dreams. It's a concept I haven't quite got set in concrete yet, verbally, but it sure makes sense to me.

JJ doesn't win most supportive student, and I don't win most improved student, but ironically JJ does win the mentor's choice award so his relief was short lived and he had to make a speech anyhow. He he he.

Saw some of the guys from Annecy on the big screen saying they were sorry to not make it to grad. It was cool to think about the European crew back home... and on that I also got to meet the Italian boys from the course. Tommasso never made it though... hmmm.

The reception was really cool. I had the opportunity to chat with Shawn and Bobby, I finally met Dana Boadway and her hubby, and generally networked and socialised for 4 hours. I didn't eat much but it was too exciting going around and finally meeting everyone face to face that I'donly previously seen online. Everyone was so nice and chill and cool and full of great energy!

The after party was at an Irish pub and didn't start till 9 so Fabri and I went to the neighborhood it was in and looked for restaurants nearby. We settled on an italian place (Maccaroni, the name of the short film I almost made) and talk Italian with the waiters and host and so get preferential treatment. The food is really really good... and it's the first time in a month I've eaten pasta that hasn't been overcooked. We spill a glass of wine and the waiter brings us a new one. Tthat's a nice thing about being in NA.

After dinner we still have a bit of time so we wander around a bit. On the other corner is the Church of Scientology so we go in and get recruited... no no, just kidding. Outside there are a bunch of guys in creepy V for vendetta masks and we take some photos. They're protesting scientology and calling it a cult. Then we go over and I spend a few minutes talking to one of them, asking what they're doing and why they're in masks and stuff. He tells me that if their faces were uncovered they'd be in danger of retribution from the members inside. I ask if I'm okay for not having a mask and he says 'you should be'. I still don't understand exactly why they're there every Saturday night but I believe they believe that there's a reason to be there.

Inside the pub I spot some AM t-shirts and head over to chat with them. Alessandro is already in the pub as well having dinner with his friend. I talk to everyone for a while and then we head downstairs to where the official party is going on. More AM people are down there and I get introduced to Kenny and Keith, 2 mentors at AM I never had. There's a mutual embarrassing moment when Kenny and I decide to sit on the sofa and are simultaneously SWALLOWED by the worn out piece of furniture.

I spend the rest of the night talking junk. I tell a bunch of people the long version of why I moved to europe (yes, the one with the pinball machine), but mostly stick to the short version. I dance alot and am enthralled by Doug from class 12 who's a brilliant dancer and makes the night so fun for the rest of us. There's a moment when I'm talking with Alex, Ben and Leslie during a Michael Jackson song and I freak out and all my feelings on the whole MJ issue come out turret-syndrome like in a string of repetitive profanity. Luckily the Billie-Jean-Thriller-ABC medley is up loud enough to drown it out besides my immediate neighbours. Ben lables me officially insane.

Half the crowd disappears and is replaced by a younger more cheerleadery and gangsta group, as well as batchlorette partys and Irish twins. It's time to go soI head back to the hotel at 1am, and all my stress about not being able to find a taxi was completely ill-founded. I could have relaxed and enjoyed alot more, but still it was a great great time.

Monday, July 13, 2009

July 10th, Job Fair and Day one San Fran

Awake after a cold night of tossing and turning. Not the best sleep to have before meeting execs and recruitment agents from all the big local and LA studios. I look like junk in the mirror and have aged 20 years overnight. I hope the interviews are brief.

We head out to retrun the car and drive with no problems (thank you navingator!!) to the Hertz office and are met, as expected, by simple rudeness, ignorance and stupidity. Fortunately, there's no thievery this time and we seem to manage to pay the quote from the beginning of the rental. They don't even question the 'maintenece required' light that's been on for the past 4 days. I'm not sure, but it's possible that Hertz might be the worst possible rental agent. I never rented a cross-country car before, so I can't be sure, but it's possible.

We stop at a diner for breakfast and I have the 2 eggs bacon jobby again. There's much map scrutiny and analysis and we decide to head towards the financial district and figure out how to get the subway to Emmerdale for the job fair. When we find out that the subway costs 6 dollars per person and look at the clock the navigator gets asked directions on foot to get over the bridge. There's 2 hours to spare afterall. Watching the seagulls dive in and out of the bay we wait for the calculation... final verdict 9 hours. Turns out you can't walk to Emmeryville using a bridge.

The BART subway is nice. I'm taken aback by all the carpeting and upholstery, cause everyone know's that's just not sanitary, but people seem decent and polite and commuting in a civilized manner. When we arrive on the other end I eavesdrop on a conversation between 2 tech guys for games companies and I laugh to myself. California.

Get to the AM headquarters and fill out my first of 20 nametags for the week. Start the office tour, but am too distracted to follow it properly. The headquarters seem like a very cool place to work and be. All of the staff are super friendly and nice and I get to meet a load of people I'm only until now seen on the internet. I also watch people play guitar hero and for the first time ever am not deafened by thoughts that it's a generation-ruining passtime. I am very impressed by the scores that people get up to. Saw a guy sing at 100% to Billy Idol's White Wedding.

During the break we head over to a food court for lunch and I can't, of 23069 options choose something. It all looks gross. We settle on the most restauranty of the bunch and I have muscles and clams in a coconut sauce.

At the hotel I chat with a few people and then plonk myself into line with the others. The truth is my heart's not in the interviewing process, but I'm having a GREAT time chatting with the people I'm waiting with. It's a little like the x-AMers from Annecy, everyone's up and excited and on form. There's humour everywhere. I drop my reel in a load of boxes and shake a whole bunch of hands.

Exhausted so it's back to the hotel for a bit of a lie down and then off to explore San Francisco. We walk for a little while before lining up for a tram to 'don't know where'. It's an experience. At first we're inside but the conductor teels us to get off and walk around... there are 2 spots on the other side. The spots are hanging off a 4 inch platform up 85° inclines and decents. It was crazy! Scary. A clichè, but in a good way. The tram takes us to Fisherman's wharf where we wander and then explore a bit. I'm still super tired, but keep going. Just when we decide to go home I convince Fabri we should hop on another tram that goes 'we don't know where'. It takes us to a nice area where we look for a vietnamese restsurant owned by Don Johnson. We can't find it but do find a wine bar and taste a load of wines. Then we get to the restaurant (at 8:30pm) and the bouncer (why does a restaurant have a bouncer??) tells us the kitchen is closed. Turns out we're not cool enough to eat there, but the good news is we go to a fish restauraunt instead and have the most beautiful view of the bay and golden gate bridge during our meal. Maybe one of the best views of the whole trip. And the food is great.

We get another tram on the way back but get off the wrong stop and walk through one of the worst neighborhoods in San Francisco. I walked the whole way back to the hotel with a yard between my feet and my arms bent up at the elbows like they taught me in the self defense classes I took in the spring. Sure I looked really stupid, but if anyone wanted to mess with me they'd for sure think twice!

Sunday, July 12, 2009

July 9th - Pismo Beach to San Francisco via Big Sur

Back in the pool this morning, first thing. Boy is it COLD. Grey and cold. But the water's warm and I have someone to pass me the towel. All this of course after a bagel and coffeee breakfast overlooking the pacific of course. 10 min in the pool and 20n in the hot tub and I think to myself how lucky I am.


Driving driving. First we stop at San Luis Obispo and have a look at some shops and bubblegum alley (an alley where there's billions of sticks of bubblegum chewed and stuck to the walls on either side... enough to make you sick even if you do like a bit of hubba bubba). Then at the Madonna hotel which has all different themed rooms and a crazy fuscia dining hall that would be perfect for Barbie's wedding reception if what they say about Ken is true!


Next stop was adorable Morrow Bay... which was a cute cute little fishing town, but I refused to eat lunch so early.... which I paid for because we didn't stop for lunch until 4pm in Big Sur, with the most beautiful restaurant view of the whole trip on a cliff overlooking the ocean and the rolling hills behind it. Made that turkey sandwich scrumptious I tell you! And 7 dollars for fries didn't even seem that crazy!


Keep on keeping on to Carmel-by-the-Sea where we hop out just to feel the sand in our toes and Monterey for a coffe... then Santa Cruz only to decide not to stop cause we can't find parking. It's clear we're over tired now and it's time to find the hotel. But first, a trip across the Golden Gate bridge when we get to SF. Of course it needs to be done before we return the car tomorrow! It's late and the bridge is amazing, but it's also very, very, VERY, cold out. Winter cold. Wind cold. It's unbelievable after the heat in Vegas but we're suffering. We get to the hotel, who doesn't have the reservation, clarify things, and go to sleep.


TRAVEL
Pismo Beach to San Francisco
via Big Sur

MapBig



ACCOMMODATION


Good Hotel San Francisco

112 Seventh Street

Boasting an exceptional location in San Francisco's SoMa district, minutes from Union Square, this unique, environmentally friendly hotel blends state-of-the-art amenities along with creative furnishings made from recycled products.

The Good Hotel is only moments from the Westfield Shopping Centre, the Moscone Convention Center and the Asian Art Museum. Many of San Francisco's most famous sites, including Fisherman's Wharf and Ghirardelli Square, are also easily accessible with nearby public transportation.

In addition to vending machines in the lobby selling environmentally friendly wallets, guests at Good Hotel can enjoy in-room iPod docking stations as well as flat-screen TVs. The hotel also features a delicious on-site restaurant, serving artisan thin-crust pizza made with only fresh and local ingredients.





Restaurant, All Public and Private spaces non-smoking.




Outdoor Swimming Pool.




Wireless internet is available in the entire hotel and is free of charge.





Public parking is possible on site and costs USD 20.00 per day.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Deer



Having grown up in Canada, and having my birthday in the middle of the summer, and often having been in the middle of the forest in the middle of the summer, I often had close encounters with deer on or around my birthday. This trip proves no different except that it seems that I do not need to actually be in the middle of the forest at all for these encounters to take place. I just need to be in anyplace where there might be deer.

These were by the side of the road in a residential neighborhood on the very west coast of California. They weren't spooked by the car and just seemed to be hanging out. I have better photos on the other camera, but this was just to give you the idea.

I'm always taken aback when I see deer. Maybe it's because of how much i cried when I first saw Bambi, or maybe it's just cause they emit a sense of complete peace with everything (unless they're fighting... then watch out!) But most of all, maybe it's because with what I know about the world, when you see them you realise how completely fragile everything really is. Maybe that knowledge started with Bambi too.

Anyhow, I'm glad I live in a world and a time when there are deer. And I'm glad that every once in a while someone decides that our paths should cross in some brief moments. It's the best birthday present of all.

Wednesday, July 08, 2009

July 8th - Los Angeles to Pismo Beach via Santa Barbara

We wake up and get ready to leave the hotel without too much stress. We start driving North West and stop to take photos at a drive in movie theatre. Then we stop in Santa Barbara for lunch at a mexican restaurant. The waitress is 100% redone. Including her voice. We drive further north and arrive at Pismo Beach around 3 or 4.

The resort is really nice. We get the north facing sea view which also looks over the pool, change into swimsuits and head down to the beach for a long walk. We pass all sorts of intersting things. Seaweed, flies, logs, rocks, giant gross jelly fish... then we walk along to the pier but decide not to go on it because it's very long and seems to be mostly for fishing.


We walk back along the beach and sit down for a little while int he sand. It's not at all warm out but it's sweet to watch the waves. We head up the stairs to where the pool area is and a guest at the top asks if we'd seen the whales as I'm washing my feet. 'No' I say and turn back towards where he's pointing to where I see some shoots of water and air fromt he surface. 'Oh wow! Whales!' I say as I look out at the distant commotion, knowing all to well the sand and sea I'm washing off is from that water moments before. And then I see them, frolicking in the waves; 'Are those dolphins?' I watch as I see the dark forms breaking the surface much closer to shore. They're not whales, no chance... not deep enough. Yup, must be dolphins... or maybe... Maybe... no... it couldn't be. Could it? No.... far too playful right? And anyhow they don't hunt in packs like that do they? Do they? Do they? No. No no no. Dolphins. Right?


Sharks.


No no no no no. Dolphins. And anyhow... I'm high up here on this bluff aren't I? I should n't be worriesd about what kind of sea creature is our there in the surf (now feeding off pelicans... spread of blood forming and bubbling in the foam). It's just my imagination.


I hop into the pool. Fabri joins me and we play around for a bit but there's even bigger kids than me around and they're better at jumping and shouting and splashing so it doesn't last too long. We switch to the hottub and then back to relax. As a final measure I sit at the edge of the pool with my feet dangling in and feel truly and deeply happy. The sun on my face, and my eyes closed.

Showered and changed for dinner we drive the nothing distance to the centre and give it a quick tour before deciding on an Italian and being seated at their bar while we wait. I order, again, erronously, a white wine that's FAR too sweet for my pallette (I curse Bennigan's bar for this misfortune ont he trip). Once seated we share and asparagus starter and 2 pizzas, which are actually very very good.


Satisfied.

Sudden sleep and no time for blogging. Too full and nice a day.


TRAVEL
Los Angeles
to Pismo Beach via Santa Barbara

BigMap


ACCOMODATION
Sea Crest Resort
http://www.seacrestpismo.com/

2241 Price Street
Pismo Beach, CA. 93449

Rattlesnakes, Mountain Lions and Michael Jackson

It's Michael Jackson's memorial today so we have to be careful what we want to do cause anything in the centre of town is going to be a zoo.

We head back out to Malibu and have lunch at Paradise Cove. It's a cute place right on the beach, but we eat too much calamari (which they serve in a giant martini glass... Jess even tried to warn us last night to no avail) and are suddenly exhausted. We sit on the beach for a while and listen to the kids playing and seagulls trying to steal food and then we walk out onto the pier and look back at the scene.

We leave lunch to drive up sunset boulevard only to find that it's the longest road on the planet. When we get to the top we're in Hollywood and stare down at the walk of fame unimpressedly. Is that all? We see the sign from a distance and as we drive closer come to a park which we decide not to explore becuase the bright yellow warning sign says 'Caution: Wildlife Area. Likely presence of Rattlesnakes and Mountain Lions'. Mountain lions!!

I'm sooooo tired so we drive all the way back down to the coast and I retreat into the hotel bed for a few hours. I haven't felt this way in ages, but I can't keep my eyes open. It's a mixture of all the driving, the sun after lunch, the heavy food at lunch and most likely has quite a bit to do with the wine from last night as well. Plus, I ahven't slept for more than a few hours a night since this roadtrip started.

When I wake up I feel refreshed and Fabri tells me the news of the world. There was a flood in Milan (I hope out house is ok, but there's no way to know till we get home). Then we decide to hit the hotel pool.

But Los Angeles is a good 20 degrees cooler than Vegas was. It's really cold! In fact I've been consistently cold since we got here. The pool water is hot though so I get in anyhow, but not for long cause there are no more towels and I have to send Fabri back to the room to get one for me. He's my hero when he comes back and my new destination is a hot shower.

Then we head out to Santa Monica for the evening. We park and walk the 3rd street prominade speculating on where to go eat. Then we go to check out the pier and see all the rides and corny pier-stuff they ahve going on there. Then it's back to the promenade and 3 slices of pizza and a cheery coke (which Fabri HATES but I love) for dinner because we decide that it's better for the evening than a real restaurant. We also passed a guy earlier who gave us a coupon for a comedy show, so we decide to go to that.

The show is really intimate and cute and you can tell they're all trying really hard. Some of the comedians are better than others and I laugh quite a bit during the one woman comic's bit. It was a nie change and the only show we've seen so far on this trip.

Exhausted we plow back to the hotel. Everything in LA is a billion miles from everything else. It's tremendous and so tiring. I liked Santa Monica and Malibu, but doubt I'd be very happy living in LA. Not that it was something I was considering too much. Right?

Tuesday, July 07, 2009

Las Vegas to Los Angeles: July 6, 2009

I get up early and head to the pool with my book underarm, for one last swim in vegas. The building's gold windows are bouncing the sun down into the pool area and it's all aglow. I read a few chapters, then get in and float around for a while looking up at the tower and trying to count the floors to the 33rd where I'm sure sooner or later I'll see Fabri and his lens appear. A while after they do and a few chapters more I go off to buy some coffee and another bagel to bring up to the room.

We get ready, check out, and wait for the valet with the car. We head to Downtown Las Vegas because we didn't get to see it yet and we have visions of the ghosts of Frank Sinatra running around. We get there and park the car and wander around for 20 minutes. It's definately different from the strip, but still has the same sad undertones. Frankie's nowhere to be seen and it seems like the old Vegas days are gone. I wonder what they'd make of the new sections and all the theme hotels.

I read for most of the drive from Vegas to LA. It's a flat, desert road with nothing to look at and no place to stop. I finish my book. We drive through the creepiest town in America cause we get off the highway 1 exit too soon to go to Patty's 50's diner for lunch (but by now it's 3pm). Every window of every building has had a brick thrown through it. Most properties had fences around them, some even with barbed wire. The diner was nice and dinery, but weird that it was so much in the middle of nowhere.

We're tired when we get into LA and are actually on freeways in the city itself for over an hour before we arrive at the hotel. We're angry with the girl at the front desk cause she claims that we ahve to pay 22 dollars a night for valet parking and that there's no other option, but then Fabri finds a spot for free in a lot across the street. The hotel is artsy and designed nicely but we decide it's a failure because of the attitudes of the staff members.

I call my friend Jess from the room and we arrange to meet later.

We head off to Venice beach for the sunset because I promised myself 18 years ago (roughly) that I'd return there someday. I had even bought a silver ring there with 2 dolphins on it as a promise to myself. I must have worn that ring for 2 or 3 years. Anyways, it's much as I remembered it but I couldn't remember exactly why it was such a symbol for me the first time around. Maybe cause on that trip I was mostly listening to the Doors, or maybe cause I had never been anywhere so far from mainstream before that trip. We were approached by kids of about that same age all dressed up as pixies and giggling who wanted to know all about us. It was weird and fun.

We meet Jess and John at Moonshadows bad and restaurant in Malibu for a drink. The place is awsome, overhanging the pacific and is stewing in amurky, foggy mist tonight. Seagulls bob languidly up and down in the middleground and every 8 minutes or so a wave becomes violent and stirs us from our bottle of wine, crashing up against the wall at our shoulders. It's great to catch up. Sometimes time doesn't pass at all with certain people and things just continue on nicely. The conversation and wine flow freely and we all move outside on the overhanging patio before we realise it's already gotten late. We agree to try to meet tomorrow and head off in opposite directions along California highway 1.

I'm nausious in the car on the way back to the hotel and ask Fabri to pull over. It's clear i've drank too much. We get to the hotel and he drops me in front with my key as he goes to park the car. I go upstairs and try the door but it doesn't work. I try a few more times before doubting I'm at the right room. I go back downstairs and tell the front desk the situation, but they are not helpful at all. They tell me that because my name isn't on the registry they can't tell me if the room number is right or check if the key is working. Thank goodness Fabri came in just then cause it's a pretty silly policy, especially when it's not my fault the key got demagnitised. Had I come home without him they would have had me sit in the lobby all night.

TRAVEL
Las Vegas to Los Angeles

Visualizzazione ingrandita della mappa

295 mi
– circa 4 ore 31 min

Juky 5th in Vegas

We stop at Starbucks for an 'everything' bagel and a coffee and grab a loungy sofa by the water's edge at the hotel's pool to draw all the things we want to do and see on the map. Afterwards we have a swim and pop in the hot-tub for a half hour before heading back up to the room and getting ready.

We walk through the MGM again and stop at the lion exhibition where we find the tenant on a glass ceiling above our heads. Two lion guys are also in the habitat with the lion about 8 feet away from him and with the postures of construction workers on break. I figure this lion is well fed, but watch out guys ont he day he gets bored of the chew toys and yoga balls he's provided with for comfort.

We cross back into New York New York and are relieved that the crowds aren't the same as yesterdy cause it's Sunday and no longer independance day. We eat a pepperoni pretzel and a jalapeno hot dog pretzel. They haven't quite got the recipe to the same quality as New York (or in fact at all) but it fills a hole in our stomachs.

For the next 4 hours we weave our way through the casinos. Stopping only at 2 slot machines (my big Vegas gamble equals 2 dollars which I lose immediately). I don't have a gambling bone in my body and at both machines I wonder why it is people keep spending their money on it. I guess had I won anything (ever, in my whole life) then I might feel different.

We see Ceasar's Palace, The Mirage, Bellagio, and Treasure Island and we're exhausted. We stop in the heat to watch the fountain show at the Bellagio and have a drink during the Pirates show at TI. We don't even understand what time it is. We did wait around for a show to start at the Forums' shops but it was weitrd and anamatronicy and decided not to wait around to see who Atlantis chose as the successor to his throne. We also thought about going to Sigfried and Roy's Dolphin and big cat containment, but ti cost more than most Zoos cost in the rest of the world and it was outside in the furnace like heat. We stopped in FAO Schwartz and played with all the toys for a while, but were sad when we realised that there were no children there. We stopped in a photographer's gallery and found out his pieces start at $2000 and go up to $1 000 000. They better give you the negatives too if you're paying a million dollars for a photo right?

All the casinos are the same. They're all bigger and better than the next one and more themed than the previous. It's a crazy crazy thing. We wonder briefly if we have any steam left to make it to the downtown Vegas part of town, where the crooners all got started, but decide that we don't and instead spend the nxt few hours satisfying our stomachs and going to see a movie.

Transformers. I don't understand what's happening in any of the fight scenes. I can't follow all the shiny metal or know who's winning at any point in time. I liked the action and I think Shea LeBoeuf is really great (still remember seeing him for the first time in Disney's Holes at an outdoor theatre in Greece). Overall the movie was a great idea considering how sleepy we were and I'm glad we got to see it.

Watched an episode of True Blood and read a few chapters of my book while Fabri played a game on his phone to finish off the day and then fell into a deep sleep... in the fluffy cloudlike bed.

Saturday, July 04, 2009

July 4th 2009 - Green River to Las Vegas

Green River is a ghost town. 10 years ago it may have been a place where truckers stopped for gas and a night's sleep, but when we wake and check out (of the worst hotel on our trip so far, if you don't count the Bavarian Inn) we find the streets empty and barren. If there were tumbleweeds in this type of desert, Green River is where you'd find them. 70% of the gas stations were closed and boarded up and the same goes for the rest of the motels (good thing we had at least booked one, as bad as it seemed). Creepy setting with the sheer rock cliffs off in the distance and the only other vehicles 18 wheelers. Reminded me of Duel.

We wanted to drive straight through to Vegas but were shortly hit in the face with natural scenery that didn't allow us to zoom through it. We had to stop at several lookouts and just marvel at the view. Apparently G-d decided to put a giant sandstone wall between this part of the world and that (and then man decided to blast a 2 lane highway through it, but that is a fact that actually worked out in our favor... shortening the trip by days). I know that the Grand Canyon is something everyone wants to go see, and I know it's a wonder to see it, but I'm certain that this part of the world definately comes close.

At one of the stops (where there's nothing but the view and an outhouse by the way) I decide I need to go to the bathroom and head off on the 100 meter walk from the car without my bag or anything before it occures to me that if Fabri suddenly goes crazy in the 2 minutes I'm inside and drives away I will be alone in the desert with no water, food, sunscreen, hat, phone, money, or ID and only an outhouse for shelter from the sun. In the 10 seconds it takes for me to make this realisation I already see myself waiting for the next truck or family sedan to pull in, talking to the drivers, hoping desperately they're not psychopaths (do psychos pull into majestic lookouts to hunt for victims? I decide this probably isn't the case), driving with my new friends (hoping for the family scenario here, not the trucker one... but stranded in the desert people can't be choosers right) to the next city (someplace in Arizona or Nevada), going to the sheriff's office (I'm not sure why but it's what I think of), and then what? I don't know. Could go a whole bunch of ways at this point. I turn around and tell Fabri, already in the driver's seat of the car, not to drive away. Of course it's never occured to him (till now) to drive away, so he laughs.
I get out of the bathroom and see he's pulled up in front of the outhouse. He OBVIOUSLY pretends to drive away at this point but finally stops joking with me and I get back in the car. Safe from abandonment or rattlesnakes. I decide that from the sheriff's office I would have started a new life in this inhospitable land. Like the pioneers!

We drive through crazy, craggy canyons, are surprised when we see some cows on a patch of grass about the size you'd use to fix a hole in your jeans, it rains and then we finally get into Cedar City Utah for some lunch. The meat market and grill we want to go to is closed today for the holiday so we go to Wendy's. They're festivly tied up some red, white and blue balloons to the counter where you order.

We stop at the Nevada welcome centre just after crossing out of Arizona (which we only touch a corner of for about a half hour) and already it's clearly Nevada. They've got a casino right there when you cross. We're hit by a gust of oven hot air when we open the car doors cause it literally, no kidding is as hot as an oven, and the same dryness. We start to laugh in nervous anticipation of the next 2 days in this state. We worry about surviving. I get loads of brochures on Vegas and they all seem glossy and nice. There are a few advertisements that have me a little concerned however. 'Bite' seems to be some sort of club you can go to to get bitten by vampires. 'The Gun Store' is where you can go try out a machine gun and take the target home with you (presumably in the shape of a human right? I'm pretty sure you don't use machine guns for hunting) 'Try it today!' is their slogan and they're the main billboard advertisers for the rest of the highway into town.

We don't have too much trouble getting into town or finding the hotel and the traffic isn't too bad, but it is frustrating because I'm so desperate to get out of the car and into the shiny pool from the brochures. It's supposed to be huge and have a lazy river, and get this: McHammer and Vanilla Ice are playing poolside TODAY!! Ha! The valet whisks the car away and the woman at the desk says 'How can I pretend to help you today?' Ok, I either look younger or stupider than I am, because I'm sure she gets away with that sort of stuff all the time here in Vegas (and I don't YET know exactly how easy it is) but I flash her a look and she straightens up.

On the way up we're in the elevator with some vocal 20 somethings who are carrying giant bong-style glasses full of Daquiris and other indigestable drink-stuffs, all dressed in bikinis and complaining that they have to pee. There's a guy with an accent talking to a tall guy who gets off on the 2nd floor and the girls all yell at him and shove him out of the elevator cause he 'could have walked'. The tall guy tells them they're rude and then they say he's rude for telling them they're rude and then they get off all giggly on the 24th floor. This revelas a timid girl in the corner. The tall guy then says wow! Who's in the penthouse? And I look at the buttons and see that indeed our floor has the PH symbol on the button. The room is great. 33rd floor with a balcony and facing the strip (though the strip is under construction). Giant tub and shower. Very nice indeed.

We go down to the Grand pool. It's a ten minute walk and we get there and I'm all excited until I see it. Have you ever seen any footage of Daytona Beach on spring break? Well, this is it, but couple that with hotdogs and kids and 16$ tubes for the lazy river ride and you're starting to get close. You can't sit on the edge of the pool because there are too many beer cans and bottles. It's really disgusting and I feel tears welling up in my eyes. My expectations were SO different. We start to laugh and comment on al the grossness and I feel a little better and we do manage to go into the water at one of the 12 pools there, but not for long cause it really is very gross and all the people have really let themselves go. Really gross.

We decide to try the pool directly beneath our tower, also part of our complex and so march back the 10 minutes and suddenly all my pool dreams come true. Clean water, normal people and not many of them, and a hot tub. Nice. We spend an hour or so here till they tell us they'r closing. Back in the elevator there are 2 guys. At first we think one is a terrorist cause he's praying, but then when he turns towards us I realise he's not going to blow up the elevator and is instead being a jerk. His friend is laughing. He says he's clearing out the negative energy. I say 'Into the elevator?? That's not so smart is it?' I think he's really wasted cause he doesn't even respond. His friend is embarassed. We get out of the elevator giggling.

We get showered and dressed and get back in the elevator and a couple gets in with this giant, twisted and tangled gold chain. Her dress is basically a bandage wrapped around the bits that would get her arrested if she showed them. She puts the necklace on him to start untangling it and he says to us 'You didn'ìt see this.' and tells her that she has 20 floors to get it undone cause he won't be seen in public wearing a girls necklace (honestly I don't know what he was worried about... it's not like you could tell it was a girls, or he was the one you were looking at at any given point in time). I tell him the necklace suits him anyhow and they both start to laugh and say 'No!! It's too Mr. T!!' Too Mr. T? Is there a moderate version of Mr. T?

We walk around all of the MGM grand and New York New York before deciding that Vegas is not really our town at all. I'm getting depressed cause I'm sponging and vaccuming up all the negative energy of the gamblers and Fabri's all stressed because there's no place to eat that isn't like eating inside a shopping mall. In the end we have a drink at a steak place where the steaks cost over $150 and then move over to a Sushi place next door which ends up being very delicious and I'm happy cause I make a perfect order.

We rush back to the hotel (though in all actuality we never left it) and I'm freezing cause the air-con is up so high. We jump in the elevator and meanly don't hold it for anyone cause we can't handle any more crazy for today. We get upstairs and fall into the cloudy soft bed. Pretty memorable 30th birthday.


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408 mi – circa 5 ore 55 min





Luxury Suites International at The Signature
125 East Harmon, NV 89109 Las Vegas

Friday, July 03, 2009

July 3, 2009 - Denver to Green River

A long but very memorable day today and I'm touched byt he fact that most people know will never see the sites I've seen in the past 16 hours. We woke in Denver, an hour earlier than we were supposed to cause we forgot that we were in Mountain time and had to set the clocks again. It didn't matter because I was having an anxious moment and wanted to repack the whole suitcase again anyhow. We watched a bit of Good Morning America on the television as I progressed and realised we'll be in Los Angeles during the Michael Jackson hullabaloo.

We decided not to eat breakfast as that worked pretty well for us yesterday buit then changed our minds en-route when we realised that Idaho Springs was so close to Denver we couldn't justify stopping without eating something. It's a nice little gold-rush starting town with its one main road, a guy that sells antique stoves and a family group of teens and preteens singing on the corner telling us to find Jesus or we'll burn in hell. I wonder thow much success they have. We also saw some amish running around but by the time I sent Fabri out of the cafe for photos they'd disappeared. I had buttermilk pancakes. Yum.

We head back out and only stopped at the bisitor centre at Eagle for a second to grab a cup ofr coffee and a bathroom stop. The scenery was breathtaking throught he canyons and the Rockies. Got quite a few photos. I especially likes the 'out of control' truck ramps, rising almost vertically off of the highway for that fatefull day Jimmy-Joe's brakes give in and just give up. There's a rainstorm and we see the lightning jump from sky to earth. We see the mountains and distance erased like someone spilled old coffee on a watercolour. And then it clears.

Crossed into Utah when I wasn't paying attention and just looked up from my book when the 'next gas station in 56 miles' sign popped up on the side of the road. I looked over at the meter and saw we had 3 bars left. 'How long has that been at 3 bars?' I aksed Fabri. He shrugged and we both started to wonder exactly what 56 miles felt like. In a momantary pause fromt he impending panic and doom (we're really taking middle of nowhere here... if you've never been to Utah, goodle it) we stop at a lookout to have a good view of the expansive rocks and nothingness. Fabri goes to the truck to change the lens of his camera and looks up at me after shutting the lid. He's locked the keys inside. LUCKILY the doors of the car are still unlocked... cause it's a billion degrees, we're int he middle of the desert and our car keys would have been locked in the truck. Resolving the issue we go to the lookout and thouroughly enjoy the view with our newfound gratitude. Later, thinking about it, I resolve the inner anxiety the keys in the trunk issue afforded me by working out that I would have wrapped my shirt around my arm and broken the car's window (or something else equally Macguiver). I feel much better with this revelation, even though nothing actually happened.

We find a gaz station and are relieved for that too. The town has a gas station and a gfuy selling beef and bison and buffalo jerky. That is all.

We turn down the road towards the Arches National park and after all the waiting up until now it comes up pretty fast. We arrive, pay the 10$ car fee and head up amongst the red rocks, fomations, arches, balancedc sphere's of rocks in top of pillars and desert shrubbery. We go to the very far end of the park (about a 25 minute drive) and work our way back taking photos and commenting on all the crazy people who are actually taking the 3 hour hikes closer to the formations. 'Nuts' we think, walking is hard! It's hot, we're tired. Walking is hard. The rocks and scenery and setting are beautiful. Utterly awesome...

We go to Moab for dinner because Green River is barely spoken about in our guidebooks, except that it's the watermelon capital of the world. We eat at a place caller Centre Cafe which is the best restaurant in Southern Utah , and it lives up to the hype. I've never eaten anywhere else in Southern Utah, but I don't know how someplace can top this place as it's the best I've eaten since I've been back on this continent. I have a beet and goat's cheese salad followed by a beef tenderloin. It's delicious. I wash it down with a heavy wine. I'm all sandy and sunned out from the day and it's good to really kick back.

Darkness falls on Utah (and my 20's) as we drive to our final stop on this long day, Green River. Fabri's my hero cause he sacrificed his relaxation this evening to be able to drive us safely the 45 min to our destination even though I gave up and gave into the day about 2 hours ago. Our my window now, the highway, desert and sky are all the same colour; a deep, dark, midnight black. After all the changes in scenery today the uniformity of the scene is refreshing, like going to sleep after you've been at a movie.

Tomorrow's a big day for me and I don't know how I feel about it. But by the same account, it's not at all big at all. It's just tomorrow, right? I guess it's what you make of it. I'm going make it Las Vegas – ooh, and I hope I can start with a swim.

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351 mi – circa 5 ore 28 min




Ramada Limited Green River
1117 East Main
1 mile N of I-70 at Exit 164
Green River, UT 84525 US
Phone: 435-564-8441
Fax:435-564-8445

Thursday, July 02, 2009

July 2, 2009 North Platte to Denver

Today started and ended 100% country. First up we headed into Buffalo Bill Cody's homestead and ranch for a tour, seeing where this famous american cattleman, showman and hero lived with his family and drew his inspiration. We had a tour of the home (love the wallpaper on the ceilings idea... thinking of stealing it) and barn, watched a 20 minute documentary ont he man ((which froze in the 19th minute) and then saw some live buffalo in a caged off section. Definately worth the stop if you're ever round these parts.

All of North America is starting to seem around the corner from everything else to me now though. I can't see anything odd about this trip anymore and wonder why in earth anyone would do it any other way. Why are the roads so clear?

We didn't stop after North Platte again until th Colorado visitor's centre just across the state line. There we had some free coffee and advice from locals on what to see. Alot of the advice was for tomorrow though as we decided to spend most of today just getting to know Denver. We stopped in Brush at a diner and I had a BLT before we could start seeing the rockies in the distance. The weather started to get angry, but we entertained ourselves listening to Dr. Lauras Schlessinger on the raido giving rude, but sensible advice to folk with issues.

The hotel is great. Our suite is much more like an actual apartment than a suite, and we have views of the city and the rockies. Couldn't ask for more.

We head off on foot towards downtown and the minute it starts raining we manage to break the umbrella. We see the capital building and the gift shop of the art museum and get to 16th street where all the shops and pedestrian areas are. We realise shops might be closing down at 5 so we hop the free tram all the way to the top of the street to the Tattered Cover Bookstore which was recommended in the guidebook. Ok it IS the best shop in Denver, and also the best place I've been for a while. I loved it. All liberty style furniture and shelves for the books, lots of armchairs and nooks and crannies and overall heaping with character. I bought 2 novels, another Obama paper doll (ok... there's definately a theme nhere now), a audio book, and a book for Fabri. He also got a photo book and the Time special edition on Michael J.

Hopping back on the free bus we get to the Crown hotel and decide to have a drink. They've got 5 stories of balconies onto the atrium and a huge stained glass roof. It was really really nice, had a pinot noir.

We walk back to our own hotel and change to go to Grizzly Rose, a honky tonk bar just off the highway. We have our apprehentions but get ready and go anyhow. On the way there I'm thinking it can be 1 of 2 things: The equivalent of Walkabout on the embankment in London or the bar from Tarantino's From Dusk till Dawn. I feel I've had enough vampires for the summer (and one of the books I bought today is on that same theme) so I'm hoping it's not a crazy vampire bar. But then, the walkabout alternative isn't any better. We get in and the place is awsome!! It's wonderful and country and full of cowboys and people smiling and just so much fun! There's line dancing and couples swinging and a live band and it's ladies night so my drinks are free and there are chicken wings and the wings are good and it's so uncool it's cool!! I love Grizzly Rose! It was also great to have a glimpse at an alternate reality. If I had been born in Denver, I'd know all the steps to those dances and they'd be just as natural to me as anything I do in my life. Painting or whatever... These people are detached from me in so many ways and the realities are different in so many ways, but there's some security in that. In knowing there's other stuff out there that you can't even IMAGINE. Grizzly Rose bar was one of them... it had to bee seen to be believed (I do understand that there are already many things that also fall into this category that I've witnessed and perhaps others haven't ... the fat kid getting his leg cut off comes to mind... or that new years at the Moroccan party but this was different and alternate reality enducing in a positive way. I saw that people can be at the Grizzly Rose and happy and I can go for a night and be happy and there's no threat to my actual existence.... I might be rambling). Anyways... a country-western kind of a day.

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265 mi – circa 3 ore 47 min


The Burnsley All Suite Hotel 3-star hotel

1000 Grant Street, CO 80203 Denver

Wednesday, July 01, 2009

July 1, 2009 - Des Moines to North Platte

A slate grey dotted with white lines kind of day. The road is long and straight on this bit of the trip. It's always the same hue of geen on the borders and ash-blue in the sky. There aren't even any clouds to keep us company.

No murders that we know of at the Bavarian Inn last night. We wake up slowly and check out quickly passing through the centre of town to inspect the Capitol buildings (golden domed... impressive) and stop for a fill'em-up brekkie. Eggs, bacon, hashbrowns and toast – it's become something of a ritual by now.

I fell asleep in the car on the highway and awoke in rural Iowa on the way to a Dutch Windmill. It was a nice detour but when we arrived at the windmill we weren't exactly blown away by the novelty of it. We did manage to find another this n' that shop with antiques and great treasure-junk stuffs. Today we bought a Kodak Duaflex II Camera. I don't know what year it's from and they no longer make the 620 film it requires but I love the thing. At first we thought it didn't focus properly, as the viewfinder's up on the top of the camera and everything seems distorted, but then we realised that this camera has to be held at stomach height and looked at with your head facing perpendicular to the floor to see the image you're taking properly. It's a square format and really makes you LONG for the film to come back into production. I don't care if there are digital cameras or if those old formats yellow over time. Old photos never hurt anybody by being yellow. Memories fade and change over time too, and I'd rather embrace the square format, rather than pretend it never existed.

Omaha is a great little city. What a surprise. We didn't see most of it of course, but what we did see, the old market town, I liked. Cute little designer shops, art galleries and nice restaurants. It seemed very cultured and refined and I think Omaha is a city, given more time, I'd explore further. The sense of humour of the locals is lost on me however. The old man in the tourist info place kept making jokes I didn't understand and his face kept going from full smile to flat, evil stare, without warning. It reminded me of breakfasts in my childhood, passing the cereal box back and forth in front of my face and changing expressions with each obstruction of view. I was better at it than my brother and was glad that it sometimes made him laugh. But back to Omaha's locals, the same thing happened with our waiter at the 'Twisted Fork' restaurant who fancied himself a bit of a comedian. He was trying to make jokes, but they didn'ìt work at all and when he joked that we couldn't leave cause he was keeping our credit card I called him creepy to his face. He agreed. It was a quite creepy delivery of an obscure joke.

Back in the car we're too late for the Pioneer Village and The Arches Roadway Monument nearby Kearney so we push through, stopping at the Sapp Brother's truck stop for gas and a coffee. Our waitress is surprised all we want is coffee and offers us pie (if she doesn't we get it for free, says so on the wall). Fabri picks up a copy of the New Testament (“take your free copy now!”) and realises that if he reads the first 4 pages of this version he'll have the summary of the whole old testament, he puts it back before we leave and as we do the waitress recommends some things to do in North Platte, where we should arrive in about an hour.

We don't see too much of North Platte on the way in but I have my suspicions that there's not too much of North Platte to see in the first place; more investigations on this come morning. The Inn isn't offensive though it's very motelly. There is an outdoor pool so I rush up to the room to change and hop right in. My co-swimmers are all pre-teen and supervised by a texting 14 year old. We're not sure if she's the mother or what.

Back at the room I shower and change and then we head out to the Depot, which is just around the corner and the restaurant the waitress at the truckstop recommended ('but have never been to, just looks like a place I'd like to go to someday'... she says the same thing about Chicago and Italy during our conversation). It turns out to be a really nice place; a converted train depot and really adorable and afforable. I have ribs (which always make me think I should go back to not eating red meat) and Fabri has nachos and rice. We vow again to stop eating this much. Both of us look much more spherical since we've been here.

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423 mi – circa 6 ore 22 min



Americas Best Value Inn
602 E 4th Street
North Platte NE 69101
US